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Opt for a Checkered Future

2024-05-22T15:35:22-07:00

An updated version of the classic ’boyfriend’ shirt, B6995 is fluid with a hint of romance. A double-wide front placket with offset buttons and buttonholes, softly pointed front sides and a longer back enhance this quintessential style.

Classic, cool, and on-trend, a cotton gingham check shirt is always a good warm weather wardrobe idea. Even better than one gingham check is when you can find a similar gingham check in a different scale or color. The base fabrics do not need to be identical but should be similar in weight.

Designed for a light/mid/shirting weight woven fabric it works in weights from hanky linen to flannels depending on the desired drape.

Pockets are included in the pattern and are optional. On the pattern envelope the white version is hanky linen and has no pockets to avoid show through. The sleeveless blue version is a linen/cotton blend with pockets.

You will notice in the photo that the wrong side of the fabric is visible from the longer back side. If this is bothersome visually, choose a solid color, a yarn-dyed plaid, a check or stripe, a light jacquard or a printed fabric without a lot of contrast between the front and back sides.

Note that the buttonholes are sewn off-set in the right front placket before the placket is stitched to the front and enclosed in the collar. The center front of the placket, lines up with the center front of the shirt, providing overlap for the buttons. The stitching line that holds the placket in place is offset on the right front and serves as a balance to the buttons, especially if stitched in a contrast color.

Fabric used: Mimi Japanese Cotton Seersucker for the main body, Right Bank Check for the contrast. French buttons stitched with red thread.

Originally the tunic was cut and stitched together in only the Mimi small checked seersucker. When I put it on the dress form to view I realized that a contrast check in the placket would make it more fun. By seeing a bit of the larger contrast check with the smaller it became clear that this was the way to go.

One cuff and the placket were carefully unstitched (using my favorite seam ripper). A new placket and new cuff were cut from the contrast check, stitched together and added. With red stitches in the buttons the shirt became just right. A few embroidery stitches may be added as well…

Changes I made to B6995:

Cut the placket and one cuff out of the contrasting fabric.
Cut the back center panel on the bias.
Balanced the collar to be the same width on both sides so it ends at the center front (not enclosing the placket as noted in the directions).
Added a simplified facing to both sides of the front. One inch finished width with a light interfacing.
Stitched the shirt together (except for the placket and the hem, which is done at the very end).
Finished the placket. After the long edge of the placket is stitched, pressed and turned right side out, slip-stitch the top and bottom edges closed).
After buttonholes are added, stitched placket to the right front. Center of placket lines up with the center front which is where the two fronts butt together.

For my next version I’m going to eliminate the buttons and placket, straighten the center front at the lower edge, add seam allowances to make it a seam — with a simple facing leaving room for my head — and have a tunic/dress.

B6995 is a shirt/tunic that can be designed and re-designed endlessly. This gingham check version is the first of many iterations that I can imagine.

Happy sewing!

Twinset — Vogue 1808

2023-07-31T13:00:00-07:00

Vogue 1808 is a contemporary version of a classic twin set that layers together, works as separates and can be interpreted for all seasons. Make it in any knit jersey or light weight ponte. I used cotton/lycra and cotton/hemp/lycra for the versions on the pattern envelope.

The tunic-top can be made sleeveless or with sleeves and features a lower back panel that peeks out from beneath the asymmetrical back hem on the cardigan. The optional decorative ‘patch’ on the back can be cut entirely from the pattern piece or sewn on top, and can be a knit, a mesh, lace or woven. Both top/tunic and cardigan have pockets. On the blue and white versions I used panel prints as the main pattern piece. On the green version, I used a mesh stitched on top of the knit.

The asymmetrical cardigan closes with one button, has a simple shawl collar cut all in one with the front, and works well worn open as well as closed. You could make the cardi symmetrical by simply cutting either left or right side in a double thickness.

Sewing & Design Tips

I sewed the entire garment using a walking foot which makes sewing any knit so much easier.
I can see either or both pieces using a combination of prints, stripes or color blocking, and it would be beautiful in black!
The pattern uses a topstitched pocket, but you could substitute a ‘floating’ pocket by cutting 2 pocket pieces. Consider using a lighter weight fabric, even a woven lining for a floating pocket.
Stabilize the pocket opening: Fuse a 1-inch strip of fusible tricot to the pocket opening, extending ½” beyond the opening. Cut the strip in the non-stretch direction to prevent stretching.

Top Neck Finish

The pattern instructions uses a single thickness self fabric strip that is turned to the inside. The fabric strip/facing is stitched to the neck edge in a 1 to 1 ratio: (no stretching in sewing), then is topstitched.
You could substitute any favorite neck finish instead.
DO check the neck size before finishing the neck edge as every knit works differently,.
You can adjust the front and back independently.
Sew/finish the right shoulder seam, then pin the left shoulder seam and side seams wrong sides together with the pins along the stitching line parallel to the edge.
I like a more raised neck for cool weather, and a more open neck for summer.

Handmade Artisan Indian Cotton Kanthas

2018-09-24T11:00:00-07:00

Kantha quilts have been made for centuries by poor Bengali women, who re-cycle old saris and clothes to make quilts to keep their families warm. More recently, some kantha is produced by women as a way to support their families, and in other cases co-operatives have been formed to offer right livelihood to women as an alternative to prostitution.

In Sanskrit the word kantha simply means rags.

The kantha fabric we offer is produced by women in their homes, one stitch at a time.

Kantha hand quilted fabrics continue to be part of our MarcyTilton.com collection — this fall we are delighted to offer new colors in cotton, a collection of gorgeous patchwork silk shawls and stunning silk patchwork yardage.

Cotton Over Dyed Kantha Yardage

This fall, we are presenting cotton kantha in 7 new colors. The fabric is over-dyed — in some cases it is sewn/serged together patchwork, or whole cloth that is over-dyed along with the backing fabric and then the layers are hand quilted together to make the fabric, which is produced in 8-10 yard lengths. Each shipment we receive is different — even in the same color, the print or patchwork or dye lot can vary from one shipment to the next. Sometimes the backing is obviously old saris, or it might be a simple cotton that has been dyed the same color as the top.

Remnant scraps - bits and pieces left from earlier cotton kantha collections were used to make Marcy’s slouchy jacket, Vogue 9287. I sent Gwen Spencer a box of pieces with the instructions, ‘have fun!’.

Sewing tips:

Gwen used one of our cotton ikat fabrics for the under-collar and facings. She laid out the position of the patchwork and colors both flat on the design table and on a dress form before deciding where to cut.

Kantha Throw

Katherine made a throw from a length of kantha — the edge was slightly imperfect and we did not want to sell it, so she took it, finished the raw edges with the same stitch as the selvedges and it is the perfect nap/TV blanket!

Silk Over Dyed Kantha Yardage

New and sumptuous, sold by the yard, patchwork silk kantha is luminous, catches the light and draws the eye. The silk patchwork kantha has been over-dyed a soft blue-gray, like a watercolor wash that harmonizes and blends the colors together. The backing is a silky smooth block print cotton. The patches themselves are a gorgeous melange including embroidery, appliqué, stripes, patterns, prints and/or solids that blend into a harmonious whole.

Silk Kantha Coat in Butterick 6422 by Katherine Tilton

A showstopper! Gwen Spencer made this for Marcy to take to Paris, and the first reaction from everyone we show it to, is the question, ‘Can I try it on?’. It looks good on everyone so far! Feels like wearing a cloud. The colors pick up whatever is worn underneath. A technicolor dream coat!

Sewing tips from Gwen

Remove the hand stitching from about ½ -¾ yard of fabric so there is enough to use for bias to bind seams and edges and for a pocket.
Plan out the positioning of the patches. In this case, we put the yellow on the back rather than on the front.
Use a hong kong finish on seams and pocket edges,
Gwen machine stitched the edge binding, forming miters at the corner, then turned & wrapped the binding, hand stitching on the back side. This is well worth doing, it results in a softer more fluid finish.
Check the pocket position — in this garment the pocket is too low.

Silk Patchwork Shawls

Vintage silk saris pieced and stitched into stunning shawls. When I admired the one my supplier was wearing, she took it off and gave it to me. Not only was I touched, I carried it and wore it all the time the rest of the trip — in air conditioned rooms, over my pj's in the morning, to add a dash of color to my mostly black clothes, on the airplane, and at home I keep it on my bed to toss on whenever and because the colors delight me. I asked if more are available and ordered some to test the waters!

No two alike, each one beautiful. The brightly colored silk patchwork is different on each one, and the color of the vintage sari on the back differs - the back side is a solid piece, sometimes with a border along one edge. When wrapped, the colors take on a new harmonious rainbow effect and light up the wearer. We have sorted according to the color on the back side, but this is a very loose sorting — you could pick blindfolded and be delighted with the choice!

Kantha in Ready to Wear

International designers are using this type of fabric with inspiring results. The photos below are from one of my favorite shops, Santa Fe Dry Goods in Santa Fe. These coats sell in the $1000+ range. My guess is that the designers are working directly with the fabric makers — so this is meant to inspire. I sent these photos to my supplier - she loved it and is designing more fabric in this vein, so stay tuned.