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The Moto Jacket — Vogue 1925

2022-10-20T12:30:00-07:00

The studio working name for Vogue 1925 is the Moto Jacket, a lightly fitted jacket with optional hood or collar, flattering princess seams in two lengths (24 ¾” and 27 ¾”), separating zipper and easy to sew inseam faux welt pockets. This flattering jacket skims the figure yet has enough ease to slide over a top, t-shirt or shirt.

Suggested fabrics

This pattern requires fabric with good stretch and recovery: stretch wovens such as denim, twill, jacket weight tech fabrics with stretch, stretch faux suede or ponte, stable knits such as ponte, light weight scuba, double knits or stable sweater knits. That said, one of our pattern testers used a lighter shirting weight crinkled polyester and the crinkles gave the needed stretch. If you want to use a non-stretch fabric, I’d recommend cutting it larger, or, ideally, making a muslin for the body of the garment in a knit or stretch woven in a jacket weight.

For the pattern envelope, I used one of our Ace Collection fabrics in denim blue (sold out), and a printed ponte.

Sewing Tips

I used 1 ½” hems on everything.
If your fabric is thick or heavy, consider using a lighter weight fabric for the facings.
A walking foot is highly recommended for sewing and topstitching
Make a test with your fabric scraps to determine the optimal topstitching width for your fabric. We used ⅜”
If you want a more defined topstitching effect, use a topstitching needle and stitch using 2 threads in the upper machine (one thread in the bobbin). Test to determine the optimal stitch length - we used a 4.0 length on the denim version.
Test your fabric to determine whether to use interfacing and what is the optimal weight for your fabric. One of our pattern testers used a soft ponte and interfaced the upper collar to give it more structure.
Another pattern tester eliminated the welts, so the pockets are in the seam.
I sent off to Botani for zippers. 15” for the shorter version and 18” for the longer. Ordered the 2 lengths in with different color teeth and weights in the tape just to have on hand. The quality is excellent and I want to have a small assortment of colors and weights on hand for future projects. Botani makes these to order and the turnaround time was quick, highly recommend as they are on a par with fine RTW. Visit Botani.
The zipper is enclosed in the seams, so topstitching is optional. If you are using topstitching as a design detail, wait to topstitch the zipper until the collar/hood are sewn in place, then do the final topstitching at the end.
The left zipper lies on the placket and the right zipper is the edge of the right front.
After setting the sleeve (I recommend basting and light pressing), try on the jacket to be sure the shoulder seam is placed correctly on your body, and to be sure the ease is even.

Inner finishing tips Finish the outer edges of the facings before inserting the zipper. Bind, serge or clean finish. I added small patch pockets in a lining fabric to the facing. Also note in the photo below to edgestitch along the short edges of the welt, stitching through all layers including the facing - this helps secure the facing flat and in place.

Can I use buttons instead of a zipper? I have not tried this yet, but our wonderful pattern maker makes these suggestions.

To adjust the front for buttons, I think you have 2 choices.

Add 1" to 1 1/2" to the right front. This will create a bigger extension to cover the left zipper seam.
Or you can tape the left front placket to the left front to omit the zipper seam. Then just use the overlap that is already part of the pattern. Although for a jacket, it gets a little skimpy at the bottom edge.
And come to think of it, you can do both these ideas at once. Up to you.

Marcy’s prototype: I used our Ace in Olive, cut the longer version with a hood.

Tips for sewing Ace Fabrics

Our Ace collection fabrics are made especially for ready to wear designers and are perfect for this jacket and similar to those used in some of my own favorite RTW pants and jackets as it has excellent stretch and recovery, and a smooth surface so other garments slide over/under easily, is comfortable to wear, and, is an ideal fiber blend. Mid-weight, (slimming, not thick or heavy), with lengthwise stretch. Important that you cut on the cross grain so the stretch goes around the body.

This letter from a customer regarding sewing with Ace fabrics is helpful.

Good Morning Artbarn Studio, A while ago, I purchased the Ace fabric for 2 pair of pants and a lightweight summery travel jacket (black, navy, sand). I've been struggling with the stitching on the stretch direction, it has been puckering in spite of playing with tension, trying paper, and a walking foot. Nothing that I'm currently doing seems to remedy the problem. Perhaps you have a suggestion on how to sew on the stretch direction and avoid the puckering? I like the fabric a lot and the garments will be a reliable addition to my wardrobe when finished. Thank you for your assistance, Rob

Marcy’s reply: I’ve done a lot of sewing with the ‘Ace’ fabrics and understand your issue which happens to me too. I use a walking foot, test the stitch length on scraps and finesse the stitching as it happens - smoothing it horizontally to the stitching helps. Then press flat as sewn before pressing the seams open - that helps too. I do have a top of the line Reliable iron which makes a huge difference as the combo of steam and a pressing shoe on the iron smooths things out. I use a clapper for finishing seams, simply resting the clapper on the fabric after pressing - no clapping or pounding, just let the fabric cool as the wood absorbs the heat. Takes a bit more time but worth it. Same thing for pressing top stitching. And VERY important to press every step of the way. Then I live with any ‘imperfections’.

Reversible Jacket — Butterick 6863

2022-02-05T12:30:00-08:00

Wanting something warm to wear, I decided it would be fun to try my hoodie pattern Butterick 6863 in flannel. The pattern is oversized so this continues my experiment with making this ‘designed for stretch knits’ in a woven. This is emerging as a theme along with making the garment reversible (see my blog on the kantha hoodie, same pattern, different problem solving). With no stretch I find the arms do need some added width — more about that later.

Once I decided to make the hoodie reversible for added warmth, the fabric, design and construction choices appear.

Design & Cutting Tips

The boldness of the red and black of Crimson Baby Buffalo Check Flannel provides the right juxtaposition to the small scale of Black and White Mini Houndstooth Flannel and makes a perfect contrast in color, balance and proportion. Cut the checked fabric separately to match the checks. Each side has one pocket in the contrast fabric to balance the inside of the hood which is exposed when worn. Cut the identical fabric pockets on the bias to provide design variation and solve matching issues.

Construction Tips

Essentially you are stitching together two separate hoodies. The zipper is first sewn on each side of the Crimson Check so the checks match. Basting the zipper in place with thread or double-faced tape is crucial. I used a 27” YKK #5 Molded Plastic Reversible Jacket Zipper purchased from Wawak.com. Once both sides are constructed and the zipper installed, with right sides together, stitch around all the edges of the garment, including sleeve hems, leaving a 5” opening on one edge to turn the whole shebang right sides out. All the seams are topstitched. This gives the hoodie a nice structure and keeps the 2 layers from bagging out. About those sleeves. With no stretch in the fabric, the sleeves need to be cut larger. This means that both the armhole and sleeve seams must be enlarged. I added 1½ ” on both sleeve seams for a total of 3”. Drop the front and back armhole 1½” so everything matches.

Have fun, keep warm and well!

Fooling Around With Flannel Jacket — Butterick 6521

2021-09-23T12:30:00-07:00

Here’s another version of B6521 — my current BFF shirt pattern — in flannel. I alliterate the feel of flannel with the flattering fit of this shirt. There is nothing like a flannel shirt when the seasons turn into cooler weather. My mind shifts into the zen mode of ‘chop wood, carry water’. For me it’s lug logs in for the wood stove, wash the dishes, make a flannel shirt. Personal zen.

Flannel — soft, cozy, comfy, warm, stable weave, easy to sew — perfect for pattern play as zen meditation.

When one has been sewing for a long time it’s great fun (and high time) to experiment with new things. I’ve played with prints a lot over the years, combing stripes, florals, abstracts, geometrics, paisleys, colors, textures and checks. This print shirt is a variation on a stripe; a subtle and soft turquoise line reminiscent of wood grain on a gray ground.

I must confess to be cavalier when working with stable woven fabric. I play with the grain line. I actually ignore it occasionally. Quelle horreur! The caveat here is try this at your own risk. Experiment. Use common sense. Common sewing sense. Sometimes it works better than others. Just saying.

It’s easy to see the grain line in this print. You can see in the different photos how each pattern piece was cut. I like the harmonious variation in each piece as it meets its neighbor.

My method involves using the straight grain, the cross grain and the bias. The bias is the tricky part but when analyzed makes sense and works.

Bias is great used in a sleeve because it offers a little give and extra ease. When used in a collar it provides a lovely soft roll. On the cuff, bias is stabilized by the straight grain on the backside. On the torso pieces, it curves over the bust and floats over the hip.

There are whole books dedicated to play and how good it is for all of us. Sewing is a great venue to play in and stripes, alone or in combination with other prints, always make a good play.

The Groovy Shacket Vogue 1689

2020-02-07T11:00:00-08:00

Fun and easy to sew, my latest Vogue release can be worn as either a shirt or jacket, making it a ‘shacket’. Gwen and I dubbed it the ‘groovy shacket’ in a giddy moment as we developed the design. V1689 reflects styles I saw in Paris last spring in shirts, jackets and coats.

Collarless with a slightly flared silhouette it features distinctive details - novel faux welt pockets, small patch pocket, pared down ¾ sleeves with placket closing and hand stitching detailing. It is easy and fun to make and offers many design options.

The pattern envelope features an on trend floral printed stripe cotton and a natural linen with hand stitched details and ribbon trim. Lightly fitted through the bust, the flared shape skims the hips. It will be easy to lengthen or shorten at the hem - I can see this made into a knee length jacket or full length coat. If you are large busted, do make the FBA (Full Bust Adjustment), this will make the garment hang well, and there should be no problem to the overall styling if you add a bust dart.

Suggested fabrics include: linen, shirting fabric, light weight denim, quilting cottons, light-mid weight cottons, silk, rayon, stretch wovens, or stable knits such as ponte.

On the pattern envelope we used a natural linen and floral stripe cotton. The fabrics shown on the pattern envelope are sold out, but we have put together a special collection of fabrics that are just right for this pattern.

The line drawing shows the details:

Marcy's Versions

Using a jacket weight linen:

Using a shirting weight floral stripe:

Sewing Tips:

Faux Welt Pocket: Looks kind-of, sort-of like a welt, but is easier to execute. In fact, this is a clever variation on the continuous placket often used to finish the opening in a sleeve cuff. To get the just of how things will be sewn, it helps to lay out the welt and pocket paper pieces, pinning together as they will be sewn, so you can see how the pieces are going to fit together.

Breast pocket: As shown on the linen version, it is designed for fabrics that will fray as a decorative element. Test to be sure you like the effect before cutting a slit in your jacket front! If making the small breast pocket, do this before joining the fronts to the back.

Transfer markings to left front including raw edge slit.
Using a rotary cutter and straight edge ruler, cut open the slit. Don’t fray yet!
If you want to stitch the decorative ribbon in place by machine, do it now, positioning so it lies straight with the cut slit.
Turn under the seam allowances on all edges on the patch pocket, turning to the right side. (so the right side of the fabric will show behind the slit).
Position the pocket on the wrong side of the garment, right side of pocket to wrong side of jacket.
Edge stitch in place.
Wait until the garment is finished to carefully fray the edges on the slit opening and sew on the ribbon by hand.

Finishing with hand stitching

When the jacket is completed, add optional hand stitching.
I used a double strand of silk cord, but you could use embroidery floss, buttonhole thread or a double strand of ordinary sewing thread. Make a sample on scraps so you can get the effect you want.
I thread the needle, then run the thread over beeswax or thread wax and press with a hot iron to make the thread smooth and tangle free.
I knot each thread separately - this helps prevent tangling and knotting.
Use a running stitch around the facing and top of the pocket, finishing with a + at the shoulder seams, stitching ends and make a + on the pocket edge to hold it flat.
Stitch a decorative piece of ribbon on the pocket. I slip a piece of cardboard into the pocket to make stitching easier.
Carefully tease out the threads along the slit to make a frayed edge

Crossover Jacket — Vogue 9287

2017-09-23T11:00:00-07:00

Holiday patterns bridge the seasons between Fall/Winter and Spring. Designed to do just that, Vogue 9287 is a simple and clean lined yet sophisticated jacket that relies on the shaping of the pattern pieces and the asymmetrical closing for the appealing easy to wear silhouette. Comes in two lengths, hip and fingertip lengths with a clever flat pocket that slips into the front band seam. Plus, it is a double breasted jacket that works as well unbuttoned as buttoned. Dubbed it a 'shacket', a hybrid of shirt and jacket.

The style bridges not only seasons, but, in the words of Gwen Spencer, 'it can go from the garden to the opera'. I've interpreted this versatile style in a dressed up brocade and a more relaxed linen/cotton light canvas from our Japanese collection for the pattern envelope. When testing the design I made it in cotton flannel, linen and sweatshirt fabric as a vest. As I write tracking the trends here in Paris, I can see it kicked back in denim or army green cotton as an updated version of the jean or barn jacket. Makes a natural background for color blocking, combinations of different fabrics, embroidery or embellishment or surface design.

Suggested fabrics:

Linen, brocade, taffeta, shirting/quilting cotton, lightweight wool, stable knits like ponte, denim, beefy stable sweatshirt fabrics, stretch woven velvet or corduroy

Cutting and marking:

Take the time to place the grain on the pattern piece with care, this jacket has subtle shaping.
Almost all of the pattern pieces are curved, some very slightly, and it is this slight shaping that creates the cut and hang of the jacket.
Transfer markings with care, matching up the various points makes the sewing so much easier.

Construction Overview:

First construct the body of the jacket
Right front with pocket and front band
Left front
Back with band
Sew shoulder and side side seams
Top collar stitched and trimmed at the neck
Join the right and left hem facings to back hem facing.
Attach the under collar to the facings
Stitch around the outer edge of the jacket
Collar right side is constructed like a classic 'notched' collar.
Finally, the sleeves are constructed and inserted.
Secure the inside facings to the garment

Hem and facings:

It helps to lay out these pieces as they will be sewn, matching the markings. Gwen Spencer says, 'place the pattern pieces on the fabric and pin the fabric pieces together as they will be sewn'.

Work on a flat surface so it is easier to pin the pieces without twisting.
Tuck under the raw edges on the facings so they can be pressed in place once the hem/facings are sewn and turned.

Marcy's Versions

Cotton flannel; In a Paris fabric shop I was told this fabric came from Hermes, so it a cut above most cotton flannels, super cozy.

Here is the shorter version, an upscale version of a flannel shirt! As a vest, it ended up being one of my favorite at-home and in-the-studio garments last winter.

longer length
sweatshirt fabric
raw edges
memory wire in the collar - I camouflaged the white tip of the memory wire with a black sharpie

We'd LOVE to see your interpretation of this design. After a month in Paris where the jean jacket is everywhere, (in shop windows, fall fashion magazines and on the street), I'm seeing this as the updated alternative casual jacket in denim or army green twill.