https://escuadronsuicida.com/en-ie/blogs/news.atom A Unique, Ultra-Hip Streetwear Online,Ladies Sportswear & Casual ClothesFabrics - BLOG 2024-05-22T15:35:22-07:00 A Unique, Ultra-Hip Streetwear Online,Ladies Sportswear & Casual ClothesFabrics https://escuadronsuicida.com/en-ie/blogs/news/opt-for-a-checkered-future 2024-05-22T15:35:22-07:00 2024-05-23T09:58:30-07:00 Opt for a Checkered Future Marcy Tilton
Classic, cool, and on-trend, a cotton gingham check shirt is always a good warm weather wardrobe idea. Even better than one gingham check is when you can find a similar gingham check in a different scale or color. The base fabrics do not need to be identical but should be similar in weight.

Designed for a light/mid/shirting weight woven fabric it works in weights from hanky linen to flannels depending on the desired drape.


Pockets are included in the pattern and are optional. On the pattern envelope the white version is hanky linen and has no pockets to avoid show through. The sleeveless blue version is a linen/cotton blend with pockets.

You will notice in the photo that the wrong side of the fabric is visible from the longer back side. If this is bothersome visually, choose a solid color, a yarn-dyed plaid, a check or stripe, a light jacquard or a printed fabric without a lot of contrast between the front and back sides.

Note that the buttonholes are sewn off-set in the right front placket before the placket is stitched to the front and enclosed in the collar. The center front of the placket, lines up with the center front of the shirt, providing overlap for the buttons. The stitching line that holds the placket in place is offset on the right front and serves as a balance to the buttons, especially if stitched in a contrast color.

Fabric used: Mimi Japanese Cotton Seersucker for the main body, Right Bank Check for the contrast. French buttons stitched with red thread.

Originally the tunic was cut and stitched together in only the Mimi small checked seersucker. When I put it on the dress form to view I realized that a contrast check in the placket would make it more fun. By seeing a bit of the larger contrast check with the smaller it became clear that this was the way to go.

One cuff and the placket were carefully unstitched (using my favorite seam ripper). A new placket and new cuff were cut from the contrast check, stitched together and added. With red stitches in the buttons the shirt became just right. A few embroidery stitches may be added as well…


Changes I made to B6995:

  • Cut the placket and one cuff out of the contrasting fabric.
  • Cut the back center panel on the bias.
  • Balanced the collar to be the same width on both sides so it ends at the center front (not enclosing the placket as noted in the directions).
  • Added a simplified facing to both sides of the front. One inch finished width with a light interfacing.
  • Stitched the shirt together (except for the placket and the hem, which is done at the very end).
  • Finished the placket. After the long edge of the placket is stitched, pressed and turned right side out, slip-stitch the top and bottom edges closed).
  • After buttonholes are added, stitched placket to the right front. Center of placket lines up with the center front which is where the two fronts butt together.

 


For my next version I’m going to eliminate the buttons and placket, straighten the center front at the lower edge, add seam allowances to make it a seam — with a simple facing leaving room for my head — and have a tunic/dress.

B6995 is a shirt/tunic that can be designed and re-designed endlessly. This gingham check version is the first of many iterations that I can imagine.

Happy sewing!

]]> https://escuadronsuicida.com/en-ie/blogs/news/show-your-stripes 2021-04-19T11:30:00-07:00 2024-03-20T16:50:40-07:00 Show your stripes Marcy Tilton More

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Combining stripes is on trend now and I’m loving it. For this shirt, using my Butterick 6521 triple collar shacket, I chose three gray and white stripes in varying widths, combined with a bolder pink/white/gray. It used about a yard of each of the stripes and had more left over on the pink. Cutting things on the bias requires more fabric.

Speaking of cutting on the bias — with tightly woven shirting fabric I don’t worry about bias and I treat it as if it were on grain. Pre-treat with a gentle wash and dry and touch up with an iron before proceeding.

The pattern is laid out on my cutting table, looking at the fronts first. For me, this is one of the most fun parts of the process. I wanted more gray/white than pink and I wanted more vertical movement than horizontal which helped in my design process. I tape small pieces of the stripe I’m going to use on each pattern piece, noting if it’s to be cut on the lengthwise/crossgrain/bias and make sure to draw the bias grain line and noting the direction the stripe is to go.





After the front is ready I decide how to lay out the back. I look at the direction of the stripes and how they relate at the side seams. This helps make the sleeve fabric decisions. I’m in the habit of adding simple fold back ‘cuffs’ to all my shirts because it gives the option for a longer sleeve.





I save the collar decisions until the jacket is almost finished. The collar pieces are interfaced because I like to wear my collar up. For a softer look you can eliminate the interfacing in the collars.





]]> https://escuadronsuicida.com/en-ie/blogs/news/the-groovy-shacket-vogue-1689 2020-02-07T11:00:00-08:00 2024-03-20T16:50:57-07:00 The Groovy Shacket Vogue 1689 Marcy Tilton More

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Collarless with a slightly flared silhouette it features distinctive details - novel faux welt pockets, small patch pocket, pared down ¾ sleeves with placket closing and hand stitching detailing. It is easy and fun to make and offers many design options.




The pattern envelope features an on trend floral printed stripe cotton and a natural linen with hand stitched details and ribbon trim. Lightly fitted through the bust, the flared shape skims the hips. It will be easy to lengthen or shorten at the hem - I can see this made into a knee length jacket or full length coat. If you are large busted, do make the FBA (Full Bust Adjustment), this will make the garment hang well, and there should be no problem to the overall styling if you add a bust dart.

Suggested fabrics include: linen, shirting fabric, light weight denim, quilting cottons, light-mid weight cottons, silk, rayon, stretch wovens, or stable knits such as ponte.

On the pattern envelope we used a natural linen and floral stripe cotton. The fabrics shown on the pattern envelope are sold out, but we have put together a special collection of fabrics that are just right for this pattern.











The line drawing shows the details:



Marcy's Versions

Using a jacket weight linen:






Using a shirting weight floral stripe:





Sewing Tips:

Faux Welt Pocket: Looks kind-of, sort-of like a welt, but is easier to execute. In fact, this is a clever variation on the continuous placket often used to finish the opening in a sleeve cuff. To get the just of how things will be sewn, it helps to lay out the welt and pocket paper pieces, pinning together as they will be sewn, so you can see how the pieces are going to fit together.

Breast pocket: As shown on the linen version, it is designed for fabrics that will fray as a decorative element. Test to be sure you like the effect before cutting a slit in your jacket front! If making the small breast pocket, do this before joining the fronts to the back.
  • Transfer markings to left front including raw edge slit.
  • Using a rotary cutter and straight edge ruler, cut open the slit. Don’t fray yet!
  • If you want to stitch the decorative ribbon in place by machine, do it now, positioning so it lies straight with the cut slit.
  • Turn under the seam allowances on all edges on the patch pocket, turning to the right side. (so the right side of the fabric will show behind the slit).
  • Position the pocket on the wrong side of the garment, right side of pocket to wrong side of jacket.
  • Edge stitch in place.
  • Wait until the garment is finished to carefully fray the edges on the slit opening and sew on the ribbon by hand.
Finishing with hand stitching
  • When the jacket is completed, add optional hand stitching.
  • I used a double strand of silk cord, but you could use embroidery floss, buttonhole thread or a double strand of ordinary sewing thread. Make a sample on scraps so you can get the effect you want.
  • I thread the needle, then run the thread over beeswax or thread wax and press with a hot iron to make the thread smooth and tangle free.
  • I knot each thread separately - this helps prevent tangling and knotting.
  • Use a running stitch around the facing and top of the pocket, finishing with a + at the shoulder seams, stitching ends and make a + on the pocket edge to hold it flat.
  • Stitch a decorative piece of ribbon on the pocket. I slip a piece of cardboard into the pocket to make stitching easier.
  • Carefully tease out the threads along the slit to make a frayed edge
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